Thursday, December 30, 2010

Yaquina Guide Boat

Since I find boat design / build fascinating the details never bore me. But I wonder how others might view a story that goes on for weeks, maybe even years with accompanying photos where almost nothing seems to happen.

For those unfortunate readers, my sympathies.

The pictures for today's post may not seem much different than a week or more ago. But please let me assure you that this is definitely not the case. The boat in question was merely roughed-out then and is very near completion today.

Since company has arrived for a couple days, the boat was hauled out of the sewing room once more (through the window as before) and placed on the back porch.
While I say it's nearly finished, it is in fact the finish that is not done. What we see here has been rough sanded and coated with an epoxy barrier coat and will require several applications of varnish to be actually done and ready for launch.

For those who, like me, revel in the details - there will be an inwale added and pads for the oarlock stanchions. As of today, the oarlock design is still in committee.
In fact, I'd appreciate any input you might have to offer. I've seen a video recently of a nice tubular outrigger that collapses inboard very efficiently, but can't remember where I saw it.

The rest is paint and varnish, sand and repeat - second verse same as the first.

I do have something new to add, however. The question of what to call this craft came to me in a flash. It is the first ever Yaquina River Guide Boat. Destined to be a world famous design, mark my word! You heard it first, right here on DoryMan.


Bursledon Blogger said...

Michael, the devil's in the detail like you I have a fascintion with boat design and you can't get enough of the detail.

Point in fact see my rooster tail comments on Chris's post

She's looking nice, going to be fast!!


Brandon Ford said...

Looking good! Keep those posts coming. I sure notice the progress.

What's her beam at the rowing station? Any thoughts about getting the tholes or oar locks outboard a little?

Looking forward to tomorrow's row.

doryman said...

I saw your comment and Chris' reply yesterday, so have been thinking about the rooster tail ever since. I think Chris is right on when he talks about weight shift. Inertia works in both directions, so is bound to oppose itself. Those beautiful wine-glass sterns must be to blame and it's very possible that weight distribution is the answer. If the rower's weight is more forward, the stern would settle less on the back stroke. If the boat's bow entry is fine enough, sinking it a bit shouldn't matter very much.

A fine double ended boat like this one will hardly leave a mark on the water, much less a wake, which is the whole idea. But my main concern at this point is how tender she will be. Almost no reserve buoyancy. That's why the center thwart is a sealed flotation chamber. I should have built the other thwart the same way, but quite frankly I was getting tired of the glue and tape.

doryman said...

Still hung up on the oarlock design. The extreme beam is only 28" and the aft rowing station is much less. Ideally I would have outriggers to give a more ideal width but I have a pretty strong prejudice against them since I am a very practical person. I don't want a boat that I have to be too careful of, which limits it's possible uses. If this boat were to have outriggers, they need to collapse quickly and efficiently so there are no unexpected incidents when coming alongside another boat or a dock.
Or I may just design a stout extension off the gunnel that opens the beam up a foot or so and would take a bump or two with no complaint. I have a design for some very light weight oars that might work very well with such a narrow beam.

robert.ditterich said...

With regards to reserve buoyancy, a racing scull type boat uses the flotation of the oar blades instead of hull shape to regain composure after a wee embarrassment- but that requires that your rowlocks have a top on them to stop the oar lifting out under pressure. I'm probably not saying anything you don't already know, but balance in a fine rowing shell is generally tuned by pressing down on one of the hands, and in extreme tilt, the blade keeps you from going over...
Riggers look so messy because there is provision in them to adjust inboard (spread), and blade entry angle. This because with a flat on the oar at the back (at the button) the blade can be pulled dependably through the water without popping up or dipping too deep
Like I said, I don't mean to say what might be obvious, it's just that I spent years rowing and coaching in very narrow boats.
Looks a treat, and I'm loving seeing the process of your thinking made wooden!

doryman said...

So you see my dilemma Rob. It wasn't really my (conscious) intention to build anything potentially as tender as a racing hull but I'm afraid it might be just that.
Trying to tell myself I go through this process every time I finish a new boat. Until it's launched all bets are off. The proof is at the waterline.

Clint Chase said...

Guys, I am developing some new outriggers that were cast decades go and were on Cullers Quitsa Pilot and a few others. Pictures at:

We hope to have them on boat by summer. These will be modified so the riggers, when folded in, will reveal an oarlock underneath so the boat can be rowed oar-on-gunwale.

doryman said...

I had considered this design in wood with a nice bronze hinge. Pretty simple. I assume it would require something to hold it down when in use.
Do you plan to sell these?